This trek was my third Nepal visit and the first time I joined Himal and his team of VHT. It turned out to be my best Nepal experience so far. I was lucky with my previous guides, but they were no longer available. So I searched the Internet and found Himal’s agency. I was convinced by the references from his previous guiding career. I now realize that I have discovered a small world of Nepali mountain guides and mountain lovers from all over the world who come together repeatedly. Most of his clients return, and yeah :), I feel the same way.
I trekked the Kanchenjunga route in the anticlockwise direction, visiting both the base camps of Kanchenjunga and the base camp of Januu Himal. Already, the start of the journey is very interesting, as the approach is by jeep through the villages and towns of the Rai and Limbu people. We then trekked from Sukhetar over Lali Kharka, Kande Bhanjyang, Phumphe Danda, and Yamphudin, navigating between fields over paths which only the villagers use. The interactions with the locals, even if limited by the language barrier, were priceless for me.
There were many opportunities to learn about agriculture, crops, animals, drinks, construction techniques, and habits. The second reward of the journey came in the form of beautiful forests, which included both coniferous stands higher up and broadleaf jungle of the lower altitudes, namely below Ghunsa. The 'panda habitat' bamboo forest was simply a fairy tale. The third reward came, of course, in the form of the mountain vistas. Apart from Kanchenjunga itself, which one can see both from the 'friendlier' southern side and from the formidably looking north side, there is Januu Himal. It feels like the Ama Dablam of this region, but in a row with Sobi Thongje and Ghabur Peak, it radiates magic. Below it, sitting on a small plateau, is the sacred rock of the Limbu, as if talking to the mountain itself.
I had a very friendly duo to travel with, Keshab as a guide and Raju as a porter. There was always something to talk about or laugh about, and at the same time, they were very courteous and attentive. Himal warned me that I should expect a lower level of comfort. I found it like parts of the Manaslu trek. We stayed in small teahouses or homestays. The least comfortable were the highest places, such as Lonak or Ramche, because of the cold and because the teahouses are few and small and often fill to capacity. The logistics of the trip were flawless, and my feeling was always that I was in good hands. To me, this was excellent guidance.
